10 Ways to Boost Your Wi-Fi Signal

Browsing slowing to a crawl. Dropped Wi-Fi signals. Wireless dead zones. Every one of these problems is maddening in a world where getting online has become, for some, as necessary as breathing. (Well, maybe not that critical…but still important.)

If you feel like your Wi-Fi has gotten sluggish, there are many tools you can use to test the speed of your internet. There are also a few tricks you can try to troubleshoot your network issues. However, if the only way you can get decent reception is by standing next to your wireless router, these simple tips can help optimize your network.

1. Check Your Wired Internet Connection

Speedtest.net (Credit: PCMag / Ookla)

Before you blame the Wi-Fi, make sure the internet coming into your house is performing as it should. You can do this by connecting your computer directly to the router using an Ethernet cable. If your laptop doesn’t have an Ethernet port, you will need a USB-to-Ethernet adapter.

Run a speed test to see your internet speed. If it doesn’t match the speed on your internet bill, you may need to call your ISP or replace your router or modem. If your speed test does match your internet bill, but it still seems slow, it may be time to pony up for a better plan. (My grandmother was convinced her Wi-Fi was faulty, only for me to tell her she was subscribed to a snail’s-pace 3Mbps connection.)

If everything seems okay, try running the test again wirelessly, standing right next to the router. If you get similarly good speeds here, but not elsewhere in the house, then your Wi-Fi coverage may be to blame. If your internet is still slow standing right next to the router, you may have some outdated gear that needs an upgrade.

2. Update Your Router Firmware

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Before you start tweaking things, it’s a good idea to update your router’s firmware. Router manufacturers are always improving software to eke out a bit more speed. How easy—or how hard—it is to upgrade your firmware depends entirely on your device’s manufacturer and model.

Most current routers have the update process built right into the administration interface, so it’s just a matter of hitting a firmware upgrade button. Older models still require you to visit the manufacturer’s website, download a firmware file from your router’s support page, and upload it to the administration interface. It’s tedious, but still a good thing to do since it would be such a simple fix.

In fact, even if your wireless network isn’t ailing, you should make it a point to update your firmware on a regular basis for performance improvements, better features, and security updates. For help with this, we have a guide on accessing your router’s settings. Once inside, look for an update tool within the System section of your settings.

If you really want to get the most out of your current router, the adventurous can look at a third-party firmware, like the open-source DD-WRT. This can ramp up performance and give you access to more advanced networking features, including the ability to install a VPN right onto your router. It’s a bit more complex to set up, but for tech-savvy users, it may be worthwhile.

3. Achieve Optimal Router Placement

MetaGeek’s inSSIDer (Credit: PCMag / MetaGeek)

Not all homes will distribute Wi-Fi signal equally. The fact is, where you place the router can hugely affect your wireless coverage. It may seem logical to have the router inside a cabinet and out of the way, or right by the window where the cable comes in, but that’s not always the case. Instead, here are some pointers:

• Keep your wireless router surrounded by open air, away from walls and obstructions, to prevent interference and overheating.

• Place your router in the center of your house, if possible, so the signal can reach to each corner of the house with ease.

• If you can eliminate even one wall between your workspace and the router, you can drastically improve performance.

• Avoid heavy-duty appliances or electronics, since running those in close proximity can impact Wi-Fi performance.

• If your router has external antennas, orient them vertically to bump up coverage.

• it can even help to elevate the router—mount it high on the wall or on the top shelf to get a better signal.

There are also plenty of tools to help you visualize your network coverage. We like Ekahau’s Heatmapper or MetaGeek’s inSSIDer, which show you both the weak and strong spots in your Wi-Fi network. There are plenty of mobile apps, too, such as Netgear’s WiFi Analytics.

4. What’s Your Frequency?

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Take a look at your network’s administrator interface and make sure you have it configured for optimal performance. If you have a dual-band router, you’ll likely get better throughput by switching to the 5GHz band instead of using the more common 2.4GHz band.

Not only does 5GHz offer faster speeds, but you’ll likely encounter less interference from other wireless networks and devices because the frequency is not as commonly used. Note, though, that it doesn’t handle obstructions and distances quite as well, so it won’t necessarily reach as far as a 2.4GHz signal does.

Most modern dual-band routers should offer the option to use the same network name, or SSID, on both bands. Check your router’s administration interface, look for the 5GHz network option, and give it the same SSID and password as your 2.4GHz network. That way, your devices will automatically choose the best signal. If your router doesn’t let you use the same SSID, just give it another name—like SmithHouse-5GHz—and try to connect to it manually whenever possible.

5. Change That Channel

Change That Channel (Credit: PCMag / Netgear)

Interference is a big issue, especially for those who live in densely populated areas. Signals from other wireless networks can impact speeds, not to mention some cordless phone systems, microwaves, and other electronic devices.

Ever play with walkie-talkies as a kid? You may remember how the units needed to be on the same “channel” in order for you to hear each other. And if you happened to be on the same channel as your neighbor, you could listen in on someone else’s conversation, even if they were using a completely different set. In that same vein, all modern routers can switch across different channels when communicating with your devices.

Most routers will choose the channel for you, but if neighboring wireless networks are also using the same channel, you’ll encounter signal congestion. A good router set to Automatic will try to choose the least congested channel, but older or cheaper routers may just choose a predefined channel, even if it isn’t the best one. That could be a problem.

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If you’re on a Windows PC, you can see what channels neighboring Wi-Fi networks are using. From the command prompt type netsh wlan show all, and you’ll see a list of all wireless networks and the channels being used in your vicinity. The aforementioned network analyzers can also show you this information, often in an easier-to-read graphical format.

At the PCMag office, for instance, most of our networks and those of our neighbors are using channels 6 and 11. In general, you want 2.4GHz set to channels 1, 6, and 11 since they’re the only ones that don’t overlap with other channels (which can degrade performance). 5GHz generally uses non-overlapping channels, however, which should make selecting the right one much easier.

If you find the Auto setting isn’t working well for you, sign into your router’s administrator interface, head to the basic wireless category, and try selecting one manually (ideally, one that isn’t in use by many networks in your area). Run another speed test to see if that provides a better signal and faster speeds over the Automatic setting in your problem areas.

Keep in mind that channel congestion can change over time, so if you choose a channel manually, you may want to check in once in a while to make sure it’s still the best one.

6. Kick Off Wi-Fi Intruders

Wireless Network Watcher (Credit: NirSoft)

It’s entirely possible the problem has nothing to do with interference or Wi-Fi range. If your network is open, or has a weak password, you could have an unwanted guest or two piggybacking on your network. If the neighbor is downloading multiple 4K movies on your Wi-Fi, your video chats will suffer.

A tool like Wireless Network Watcher will show you all the devices using your internet and help you sniff out someone who might be stealing your Wi-Fi. Your router’s admin interface may also have a traffic analyzer of some sort that will tell you which devices are using lots of data. You may even find one of your own kids is sucking up bandwidth without you realizing it. (If so, here’s how to kick them off).

Once you find the intruder and remedy the problem, secure your network with a strong password—preferably WPA2 or WPA3, since WEP is notoriously easy to crack—so others can’t join in.

7. Control Quality

(Credit: PCMag / Netgear)

Most modern routers come with Quality of Service (QoS) tools to limit the amount of bandwidth that apps use, like the Netgear menu above. QoS settings can typically be found under advanced settings in the network’s administrator interface.

For example, you could use QoS to prioritize video calls over file downloads—that way, your call with grandma won’t drop just because someone else is grabbing a big file from Dropbox. The file may take longer to download, but it should keep the video call looking nice. Some QoS settings even allow you to prioritize different apps at specific times of day.

Some routers may make it easier by offering a one-click multimedia or gaming setting, so you know those applications will be prioritized. If you’re trying to stream games while sharing a network, there are steps you can take to make things better.

8. Replace Your Antenna

TP-Link Archer AXE75 (Credit: TP-Link)

If your router uses an internal antenna, adding an external one would be a good idea, as the latter tends to send a stronger signal. Your router may have come with antennas you can add on yourself, but if not (or if you threw them away long ago), many router manufacturers sell antennas separately.

In many cases, you can choose between omnidirectional antennas, which send a signal to all directions, or directional ones, which send a signal in one specific direction. Most built-in antennas tend to be omnidirectional, so if you plan to buy an external one, it should be marked “high-gain” to actually make a difference.

A directional antenna tends to be a better option, since odds are that you aren’t experiencing weak spots in your network in every direction. Point your external antenna in the direction of your weak spot, and it will broadcast the signal accordingly. Check your router manufacturer’s website for details on what to buy.

9. Upgrade Your Obsolete Hardware

TP-Link Archer AX11000 tri-band gaming router (Credit: TP-Link)

It’s a good idea to get the most out of your existing equipment, but if you’re running old hardware, you can’t expect the best performance. We have a tendency to subscribe to the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality with back-end devices, especially networking gear. However, if you bought your router years ago, you might still be using the older, slower 802.11n standard (or God forbid, 802.11g).

These older routers may cap at fairly low bandwidths, and may even have shorter ranges. For instance, the maximum throughput for 802.11g (Wi-Fi 3) is 54Mbps, while 802.11n (Wi-Fi 4) caps out at 300Mbps. All the tweaking we’ve outlined above will only get you so far with one of these older models.

However, if you upgrade to a new router with the latest 802.11ac (Wi-Fi 5) standard, you get support for 1Gbps. Meanwhile, next-gen Wi-Fi 6 routers can theoretically hit 10Gbps, and Wi-Fi 6E routers have access to even more spectrum that can offer additional coverage. Plus, you’ll get modern features like QoS, and better channel selection and band steering for 5GHz devices.

Some newer routers also have features like Multi User-Multiple Input Multiple Output (MU-MIMO), like the Editors’ Choice TP-Link Archer AX11000 tri-band gaming router. MU-MIMO routers can send and receive multiple data streams simultaneously to multiple devices without bandwidth degradation and require specialized testing with multiple clients, but the clients need to be MU-MIMO compatible.

If you do end up buying a new router, the setup process won’t be too scary. We have a guide on how to set up and configure the device.

Even if your router is new, you might have some ancient devices that are falling back to older, slower standards. If you bought a PC within the last 10 years, you likely have an 802.11ac wireless adapter, or at least 802.11n. But the older your devices, the less likely they are to have modern tech built in.

For these machines, you might be able to buy a USB Wi-Fi adapter that plugs into a USB port and improves connectivity. This way you don’t haver to completely replace your computer just to take advantage of new Wi-Fi technology.

10. Reach Further With a Range Extender or Mesh Wi-Fi

Amazon Eero Pro 6 (Credit: Amazon)

If all of the above tips fail, it’s possible that your house is just too big for a single router to send a good signal everywhere. Your router may also just have too many corners to go around and walls to penetrate. If this is the case, you would need another solution to extend your signal: A range extender or mesh network.

Range extenders receive a signal from your router, then rebroadcast it to your devices, and vice-versa. In this way, you get an inexpensive solution that can act as a repeater to extend the range of your wireless router. However, they are often not as effective as mesh Wi-Fi systems, which replace your existing router entirely.

Instead of merely repeating a router’s signal, multiple units work together to intelligently route traffic back to your modem, blanketing your house in a single Wi-Fi network that reaches everywhere you need. When setting up these mesh points, stick to the same rules for figuring out placement: one node is connected to your modem, and each of the other nodes should be close enough to pick up a solid signal, while far enough to extend coverage to dead zones. 

Note that even with a mesh system, you may still incur some performance loss on the far ends of your house, especially if your Wi-Fi has to make multiple “hops” between nodes. Again, placing the main unit in the center of the house is best. And connecting the nodes with Ethernet will produce the best results (trust me: If you truly want problem-free Wi-Fi, it’s worth calling an electrician to run the wires).

The traditional downside to Wi-Fi mesh systems has been that they’re generally more expensive than simply adding a range extender to your existing router. If you’re tech-savvy, you might be able to save some money by setting up a few cheaper (but more complex) Ubiquiti UniFi Lite access points. Amazon’s Eero 6, Eero Pro 6, and Eero 6+ are priced lower than much of their mesh competition while offering Wi-Fi 6 compatibility and a built-in Zigbee smart home hub.

(Editors’ Note: Ekahau and Ookla are owned by Ziff Davis, the parent company of PCMag.)